Surf



Usually in the mornings in the summer the sea is very flat, there are no waves and sometimes sailors say it is like a "tava" (‘tray’). This is because the temperature of the water is equal to that of the land and there is almost no air movement, which we call wind. It is the wind that forms sea waves as air masses rub against the surface of the water. The stronger the wind, the more powerful the waves that form. The waves in their movement towards the shore reach the shallows which slow down the lower part, the upper part overtakes them, breaks and crashes - we see this as foam. This is how the surf forms. In a strong swell, the surf has a great impact force that can knock a person over. After reaching the shore, the water turns back and causes a powerful water current rushing out to sea.

Sometimes, especially in winter, the surf is so strong that it can reach far out from the seashore and flood the entire beach. As it moves backwards, it can drag a large amount of sand out to sea, which then gradually returns with the surf. This is how beaches cleanse and regenerate themselves, and how it has been for centuries. Beaches are constantly changing and this is perfectly natural. This is how dunes form - with the help of the sea, the wind and the sand.